Take a walk on the wild side
PHOTO: Footbridge over the Clinton River at the start of the Milford Track
Fourteen serrated inlets along the west coast of the South Island give Fiordland its name, from Milford Sound in the north to Preservation Inlet in the south.
The early surveyors mistakenly labelled the fiords ‘sounds' and although these names remain, the region's name belies the error.
Captain James Cook and the crew of his ship the Resolution were the first Europeans to visit Fiordland in 1773 when they spent several weeks exploring Dusky Sound after an epic crossing of the Southern Ocean. Cook had already named the inlet Dusky Bay on his first visit in 1770 but darkness and unfavourable winds had prevented the Endeavour from making landfall.
Cook's maps and descriptions of the area soon attracted sealers and whalers who formed the first European settlements. From the middle of the 19th Century surveyors, explorers and prospectors began to venture into the unexplored interior of Fiordland. Ever since, visitors have been travelling there to admire the unspoilt wilderness with its virgin beech and podocarp forests, mountain peaks, tumbling waterfalls, alpine lakes and the ferns and mosses that lie beneath the dappled light of the forest canopies.
Descriptions of Fiordland usually involve superlatives and yes, they are all true. "Jaw-droppingly beautiful," "breath-taking," and "out of this world," accurately describe this vast remote wilderness, which at 1.26 million hectares, is the largest National Park in the country and a major part of one of the great wilderness areas of the Southern Hemisphere, a World Heritage Area known as Te Wahipounamu (the place of greenstone).
Fiordland also lives up to its reputation as "the walking capital of the world" with almost 500 kilometres of walking tracks that vary from gentle lakeside strolls to strenuous climbs over spectacular mountain passes. Those who do not have their own gear can hire it from various outlets in either Te Anau or Queenstown. There are also transport connections to and from the tracks.
Three of New Zealand's Great Walks, the Milford, Keppler and Routeburn tracks pass through Fiordland National Park. All can be walked independently but on the Milford and Routeburn tracks, it is possible to take guided walk options with additional creature comforts.
The one-way 53.5km Milford Track (4 days/3 nights) from Lake Te Anau to Milford Sound is world-renowned and consequently very popular, but only 40 independent walkers can start the track each day. Therefore, it is necessary to book well in advance especially during the peak season between October and April.
The Routeburn Track is 33kms long (3 days/2 nights) and connects with the Greenstone or Caples Track to make a circuit. It can be walked in either direction from The Divide on the Milford Road or from Glenorchy, at the head of Lake Wakatipu near Queenstown.
The Kepler Track is a 60km circuit (3 days/2nights or 4 days/3 nights) that can be walked in either direction from Lake Te Anau.
Apart from these three Great Walks, there are numerous day walks that leave from Te Anau, Manapouri, the Milford Road, Deep Cove at Doubtful Sound, Lake Monowai, and Lake Hauroko.
For those who are fit and experienced hikers, the rugged 84km Dusky Track is a challenge that takes at least eight days to complete. The track links Lake Hauroko with Lake Manapouri.
The 56km Hollyford Track is the only major track in Fiordland that connects to the Fiordland coastline and it can be walked in any season. It starts from the end of Lower Hollyford Road and finishes at the old port of Martins Bay.
More Information
Safe hiking starts with adequate preparation. The Mountain Safety Council offers the following tips:
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Plan the trip thoroughly - including telling someone where you're going and when you'll be back.
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Carry sufficient clothing, equipment, food and water.
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Carry a means of emergency communication.
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Check the weather forecast.
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Check track and hut conditions.
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Beware of rivers - if in doubt DO NOT CROSS.
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Prepare for emergencies.
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Further Information on the walks mentioned here is available from the Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre in Te Anau or the Department of Conservation (DOC) office in Queenstown.
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No story on Fiordland would be complete without mentioning those little varmints called sandflies. We can only suggest that you keep moving and don't forget the insect repellent!
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Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre, Lake Front Drive, Te Anau, is open seven days a week from 8.30am to 4.30pm (winter) or 6pm (summer).