On the road to Northland
PHOTO: Cape Reinga
by Talia Shadwell
Northland’s balmy climate, friendly locals and outdoor pursuits aplenty make it an ideal destination for visitors to Aotearoa’s North Island.Bereft of many of the daily expenses encountered in more cosmopolitan areas of New Zealand, Northland’s charming small-towns, breath-taking golden beaches, crystalline waters, soaring sand-dunes and mighty Kauri forests are just some of the features that set this region apart from the rest of the country.
Backpackers News shares a few tips for things to see and do in the ‘Winterless North’ - nicknamed for its year-round balminess - on a short time-frame and a tight budget.
Visitors to Northland often start by setting up base in Whangarei, Northland’s hub and a small port city. Populated by about 50,000, it is only 2 hours’ drive north of Auckland. Growing in size and in its range of activities in recent years, Whangarei is a perfect springing point for water-sports such as kayaking and sailing during the day, and its cluster of waterfront bars and restaurants are a haven of relaxation by night.
Access:
Drive north of Auckland for 2 hours via the Northern Motorway. Make sure you pay your fees (approx. $2) when you use the toll road.
Bus - For the best deals try bus companies InterCity and Naked Bus. Both offer one-way trips to Whangarei for just shy of $25 (visit www.nakedbus.co.nz or www.intercity.co.nz).
DAY 1
When in Whangarei, ensure you visit a few local sightseeing spots such as Limestone Island (Motu Matakohe), the site where the wreck of the Tiri - better known as the Radio Hauraki boat and home to New Zealand’s first pirate radio station - rests. It can be accessed by boat or is an easy distance for a morning trip by kayak. Call Pacific Kayaks on 021 1295 921 to book a guided day trip. In the afternoon, take a 3 hour return trip hike up Mount Manaia - the steady climbing gradient amongst native bush makes for a great workout which is rewarded by a stunning view from the summit (see www.doc.govt.nz for more details). Swim at Pataua Beach where you can ride gentle currents in a pretty lagoon, or surf at Ocean Beach.
By night, visit pizzeria Reva’s (31 Quayside, by the waterfront), going strong since the ‘70s and still staffed by its original owners. Reva’s was made famous by its connection to the sinking of the Rainbow Warrior when it was discovered the two French intelligence agents responsible for the Greenpeace ship’s bombing had dined there.
DAY 2
Hop in your car or campervan in the early hours and head north to the ultimate destination and north-westernmost tip of New Zealand: Cape Reinga. The roadtrip takes roughly five hours without stops, but with an array of sweet coastal towns along the route, it is best to allow yourself a little more time to take in the sights. The first worthy turn off is at Kawakawa, home to the Hundertwasser toilets. As a tourist destination, it may not sound enticing but the backstory and town pride in these distinctively decorated rest rooms -the very last work of an internationally renowned Austrian artist - make them a worthy stop.
Next, head back onto the main route, stopping first for a dip in pretty Paihia where, if you have time before lunch, you can also take a ferry to Russell to see one of New Zealand’s oldest churches, dolphin spotting along the way.
Drop by Kerikeri for a tasty lunch at the Jerusalem Café (Cobblestone Mall, pedestrian access off the main street) before heading to one of New Zealand’s most significant sites, the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, to see cultural performances and a marae (general admission $25, New Zealand citizens free).
Take the road north to Kaitaia to pick up some supplies for the night and head for 90 Mile beach (which, funnily enough, is not 90 miles at all but 55 miles). Talk to locals to check the afternoon tidal forecast for the beach, and take stock of your vehicle - both very important steps as signs constantly remind beach drivers that many a vehicle has been lost to the tides. The terrain is best suited to off-road worthy vehicles, motorbikes, and horses. If your vehicle doesn’t make the grade, take the road, or the Dune Rider bus can drive you up the beach (approx. $45, call 0800 DOLPHIN).
Arriving at Cape Reinga’s visitor area, walk down a short path to the light house to catch a spectacular sunset from the wind-torn peninsula which as a farewell point for departing spirits, is of much cultural significance for Maori. Pitch a tent or stay overnight in a campervan at the well-equipped DOC site at Tapotupoto Bay, 10 minutes driving access from Cape Reinga ($7 p/person a night - www.doc.govt.nz)
DAY 3
If you’re wanting to write home to boast about travelling the length of New Zealand, from Stewart Island to the Northernmost tip, brace yourself to trek a little farther on foot the next morning to see the Surville Cliffs - offering just as breath-taking a view as Cape Reinga. Stop to play on the whopping sand dunes at Ahipara - you can hire a toboggan or bike locally - and surf the boiling seas. Return to Whangarei via the way you came is too easy - take the Western route back to see New Zealand’s largest tree in the Waipoua Forest on the Kauri Coast - named Tane Mahuta after the Maori forest deity. Take the Dargaville Route back to Whangarei and reward yourself with a pint or cocktail following a whirlwind tour of the far north by visiting the ambient Butter Factory bar on Butter Factory Lane, accessed from the Bank Street steps.
On and off the beaten track…
Top 10 things to do if you have a little more time to kill, and a touch more money to blow in and around Northland.
1. Dive the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior with Dive North in Kerikeri
2. Discover the history of the Mighty Kauri at the Kauri Museum at Matakohe
3. Whangaroa One Base Tournament - big game fishing competition
4. Paddle a Waka - on the tidal estuaries of the Waitangi River
5. Parasail in Paihia
6. Skydive over the Bay of Islands
7. Ngawha Springs - natural thermal hot pools near Kaikohe
8. Surf Shipwreck Bay - at the end of 90 Mile Beach
9. Swim with dolphins in the Bay of Islands
10. Fish ‘n Chips at Mangonui - on the way to or from Cape Reinga