Relaxed, laid-back lifestyle

You know you can trust a place when the locals flock there at every opportunity. The Coromandel peninsula has been and always will be a favourite destination for New Zealanders because it’s just so gloriously beautiful and deliciously relaxed. 

The best way to do the Coromandel is all the way round. The contrast between the two coasts is just like the rest of New Zealand. The west provides rocky beaches, less people, quirky arts and crafts and hippies lurking in small towns. The east sports white sand beaches, surf, calmer weather, more people and better coffee.  

Your first stop is Thames, known as the ‘Gateway to the Coromandel’, which was probably thought up by a cheesy city council bureaucrat. In the 19th century Thames was one of New Zealand’s largest towns built on the pioneering industries of gold digging and Kauri logging. Today it’s a stress-free sleepy place and provides a base for some good exploring. 

The Thames Coast is a Pohutukawa laden scenic drive and there are a plethora of bush walks along the way that vary in length and ability.  

The best hike is in the Kauaeranga Valley. You follow the path old packhorses used to get supplies to the kauri loggers living in the hills, ambling past giant kauri stumps (their width can be twice your height), kauri dams that look frightfully precarious and old tramlines. The climax is the last section which is a steep climb leading to a jagged summit called Pinnacle Rocks. You feel a little Gollum-esk getting to the top but it’s worth it as the panoramic view goes for miles and miles and on a good day you can see from the east coast to the west.  This is an 8 hour trip so many people spend the night in the Pinnacles Hut (modern with 80 bunks) to break the journey. You don’t need flash hiking boots, you can do this in sneakers and cut off jeans if need be.

The next town is Coromandel. It’s one of New Zealand’s creative spots attracting talented artists and craftspeople from all over the county. It’s easy to see why as its laid back lifestyle and tranquil surrounds give it an air of experimentation and relaxation.  You can visit local artists’ studios if your curious. It’s worth stopping for a night here where you can frolic around the handful of bars, cafes and restaurants. If you’ve got some cash then a night at The Pepper Tree is very tasty. Everything about this little town makes you want to sip a cool glass of vino, chomp shellfish, flick your shoes off and let your mind wander to nowhere in particular.

Colville is the next stop, not far up the road. It services the local farmers and community and it’s a good spot to get your last fix of real coffee for a while.

Heading further north will take you into parts of the Coromandel where many never venture. You can drive right up to the top of the peninsula and camp at Fantail Bay, Port Jackson and Fletcher Bay in DOC campsites.

If you head to the top you have to come back down to Colville to cross over to the East coast. The roads are not great but the scenery is worth it on this enchanted peninsula.

• Rapaura gardens (64 acres of lushness including waterfalls) 30mins from Thames – Ph 07 868 4821, www.rapaurawatergardens.co.nz
• Thames Market runs every Saturday morning (9am to noon) all year under the Grahamstown verandas, Pollen Street North.
• Best to book the Pinnacles hut via The Kauaeranga Visitor Centre
• Email: kauaerangavc@doc.govt.co.nz or Ph 07 867 9080.